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PARIS HAUTE COUTURE 2025

Some designers want to cut through the noise. Alessandro Michele is embracing it. He titled his spring 2025 couture collection “Vertigineux,” and proceeded to stare down into the dizzying depths of history. Pre-show, the V-word was projected in red on a screen behind the blue opera curtain-lined runway. And as the show progressed, a flurry of terms flew by, like a stock market ticker for liberal arts graduates: Freud, intarsia, William Morris, Cleopatra, pointillism.

In his couture debut, Michele appeared to be grappling with the vertigo that arises when you’re faced with innumerable choices and sifting through infinite references. Yes, it’s a lucky problem to have—a couture atelier and its battery of resources at your disposal—but for a creative person, there’s a kind of paralysis that comes from being able to do anything and everything. You can be hamstrung by it, or you can lean into it. Guess which route he chose?

Michele chose for his epigraph an Umberto Eco quote about lists, a topic that he said has fascinated him since he was a child. As Michele wrote in his show notes, they can be a way to “bring some order to the chaos of the universe,” or a Babel-like way to spiral further and further into said chaos. He considered each one of the 48 looks to be a list in itself; each dress, he wrote, was “a plurality of interconnected worlds.” (For the real students of maximalism, a 200-page version of the show notes was available.) In a post-show press conference, he said that he liked the idea of “something that is not finite, not finished.”

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