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Viktor & Rolf

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE 2025

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Karl Lagerfeld famously said: "I am like a computer, plugged into Chanel mode." This remark, made over 40 years ago, feels more relevant than ever today: man as an extension of the computer, and a fashion brand's heritage as a collection of data, ready for processing.

The Viktor&Rolf Spring/Summer 2025 collection presents a series of extremely diverse variations on a single outfit: a beige trench, a white shirt, and blue pair of pants. While paying homage to couture's traditions and history, the collection forms a whimsical, human clin d'œil to the boundless possibilities of Artificial Intelligence.

The deliberately divergent image of this collection (long; short; day; night; crumpled; pristine; minimal; baroque, etc.) is unified by its use of a single fabric: silk gazar from Ruffo Coli. This choice nods to Viktor&Rolf's Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1999 ‘Blacklight’ collection, crafted entirely from the final rolls of silk gazar developed by Balenciaga in collaboration with the now-defunct Swiss producer Abraham.

The collection proposes multiple variations on Viktor&Rolf's house codes of ruffles and bows in a style that is baroque and boldly decorative, yet severe and minimal. The presentation itself playfully subverts the codes of a couture show, with an AI ladyspeaker announcing each exit, like couture prompts.

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